Base Camp

Day 12. Today we attempt to reach Everest Base Camp.

There's a lot of walking to fit in today, so its an early start - we are woken at five to be ready to head out by six o'clock. After a meagre breakfast (appetite is still not what it should be) and attempts by everyone to thaw some drinking water near the stove, we're ready.

We head out into the slowly lightening day and begin the three hour walk to the final settlement on the trek, Gorak Shep, at about 5200 meters. The sun won't make it high enough for us to benefit from its warmth for over an hour, meaning that all the water we thawed just freezes again - I get brain freeze each time I try to take a sip (check out the link - apparently your brain doesn't actually freeze!). Just after nine we finish the climb to Gorak Shep - time for an early lunch.

At ten thirty we leave for the three hour walk to base camp. The climb is not great - about another two hundred meters - but the walk is difficult: the path continually climbs then falls, air is thin, energy is scarce due to lack of food, and because the route has only been open a few days the trail hasn't yet been worn into a proper path and in many places is simply loose stone which could slip us over at any moment.

At about half way, we can see base camp in the distance. Its at this point that I start wondering whether to continue. I'm fairly sure I can get there, but I'm not so certain about getting back. Its time for a chocolatey treat. Fortunately I stocked up on Snickers at Gorak Shep - they might have been expensive, but they were well worth it.

Reaching base camp itself is quite an emotional moment - I made it(!), but I am still wondering about the walk back. There is absolutely nothing here either - its too early in the year for any expeditions to have come this far and the only things around us are mountains, glaciers, another couple of walking groups, and a crashed helicopter. Its very tranquil and, contrary to belief not covered in litter - although that may be because there are no camps here yet.

Everest itself is barely visible from here - behind the helicopter we can see the glacier up which those attempting the summit will climb, then, peeking out between the sides of Nuptse and Khumbutse we can see only a small portion of the highest mountain in the world.

The views are amazing though - the weather has still held for us and the sky is amazingly blue this high up. We stop for as long as we can in the cold, which gives us enough time for some group photos to prove we made it, followed by another Snickers - energy for the walk back.

 

Another three hour walk brings us back to Gorak Shep (another Snickers is consumed on the way - all in all a three-snickers day). Tomorrow we are supposed to be having another early start for a walk up Kala Patthar before breakfast - I know it would offer much better views of Everest, but I might just have a lie-in.